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What Wine Goes with Fish: Beyond the Old Adage

Updated

The classic adage "White wine with fish; Red wine with meat" is outdated, according to K. MacNeil in The Wine Bible, as modern winemaking offers diverse styles. What wine goes with fish now turns on weight, acidity and preparation rather than on colour. The most basic element in food and wine pairing is balancing the "weight" of the food with the "weight" or "body" of the wine, as noted by Evan Goldstein in "Perfect Pairings". For fish, this often means considering the preparation and sauce. A light, delicate fish like poached fish typically pairs well with a light white wine, but if served with a heavy cream sauce it could be better balanced with a fuller-bodied white wine or a light red, M. Oldman states in "Oldman's Guide to Outsmarting Wine". Acidity in wine is crucial, as it can "cut" through the heaviness of fatty, oily, rich, or salty dishes, offering a refreshing sensation on the palate, as Evan Goldstein explains.

Conversely, fish oils can make tannic wines taste metallic or off, as J. Robinson notes in "The Oxford Companion to Wine". Therefore, focus on the dish's dominant flavor and texture to select a wine that complements or contrasts effectively, ensuring neither overwhelms the other. As an owner of fine wine, you understand the importance of optimal conditions, from how to store wine to assessing its market value on our live fine wine market index.

Why is the "white wine with fish" rule outdated?

The notion that only white wine pairs with fish is a simplification that modern winemaking has rendered obsolete. The historical adage "White wine with fish; Red wine with meat" arose from the principle of matching the body or weight of the wine with the weight of the food, as K. MacNeil explains in The Wine Bible. Red wine was generally heavier and "red" in color, assumed to pair better with heavier, "red" meat. The adage put fish, light and "white" in color, with white wine. However, this adage has become outdated due to the variety of wine styles prevalent in modern winemaking, where many "heavy" white wines, such as "New World" oaky Chardonnay, can have more body than lighter reds like Pinot noir or Italian Merlots, according to K. MacNeil.

The "weight" of a food can also be described by the intensity of its flavors, from delicate to robust, as K. MacNeil notes. The dominant flavor of a dish, often the sauce rather than the main component, is key to pairing. For instance, while poached fish is usually light-bodied and better served with a light white, if the fish is served with a heavy cream sauce it could be better balanced with a fuller-bodied white wine or light red, M. Oldman states in "Oldman's Guide to Outsmarting Wine". Deciding to open a bottle from your collection, perhaps one you acquired through how to buy wine at auction, involves considering its readiness.

How do wine characteristics influence fish pairings?

Understanding the physical properties of wine, such as acidity, sweetness, bitterness, and alcohol, is crucial for successful pairings, as Evan Goldstein details in "Perfect Pairings". These characteristics interact with food to alter or enhance the perception of the wine.

Acidity is a dominant factor in any food and wine pairing. A mouth-watering response from the salivary glands signals it, and that response can stimulate the appetite, according to Evan Goldstein. In dishes that are fatty, oily, rich, or salty, acidity in wine can "cut" through the heaviness and provide a refreshing change of pace on the palate, as Evan Goldstein explains. A wine less tart than the dish it accompanies may taste thin and weak. A wine that seems "too tart" on its own may appear softer when paired with an acidic and tart dish, as the complementing tartness of the food and wine cancels each other out, allowing other components to be more noticeable, according to Evan Goldstein.

Sweetness in wines, determined by residual sugar, often requires the wine to be sweeter than the dish it accompanies, Evan Goldstein states. Sweetness balances spice and heat, serving as a contrast to alleviate the burning sensation from peppers and spices. It can also accentuate mild sweetness in foods and contrast with salt, such as the European custom of pairing salty Stilton cheese with a sweet Port, K. MacNeil notes.

Bitterness, primarily from a wine's tannins, adds a gritty texture and chalky, astringent taste, enhancing the perception of "body" or weight, Evan Goldstein explains. Tannins react with proteins. When paired with dishes high in proteins and fats, tannins bind to these proteins and come across as softer. However, fish oils can make tannic wines taste metallic or off, as J. Robinson highlights in "The Oxford Companion to Wine". Spicy and sweet foods can accentuate the dry, bitterness of tannins, making the wine seem to have off flavors, according to M. Oldman.

Alcohol is the primary factor dictating a wine's weight and body; higher alcohol typically means more weight, increasing the perception of density and texture, Evan Goldstein states. Salt and spicy heat accentuate the alcohol and the perception of "heat" or hotness in the mouth. Conversely, alcohol can magnify the heat of spicy food, creating significant heat for the taster when a highly alcoholic wine is paired with a spicy dish, M. Oldman notes. For those considering the long-term value of their holdings, understanding these interactions can also inform decisions related to fine wine investment or when to sell fine wine.

What are common white wine styles for fish?

Many white wine styles offer ideal characteristics for pairing with fish, particularly those with vibrant acidity and complementary flavor profiles. Lighter whites, such as Pinot gris, Pinot blanc, Riesling, Sauvignon blanc, Chablis, Champagne, Grüner Veltliner, Vinho Verde, and Muscadet, are often recommended, according to K. MacNeil in The Wine Bible. Medium to heavy whites include oaked Sauvignon blanc, Alsatian wines, Albariño, White Bordeaux (Sémillon), White Burgundy, Rhone whites (Viognier, Roussanne, Marsanne), and New World Chardonnay, K. MacNeil states.

Consider these grape varieties and their common sensory descriptors, as identified in the source

Grape Variety Common Sensory Descriptors
Albariño lemon, minerals, apricot, peach
Chardonnay butter, melon, apple, pineapple, vanilla (if oaked)
Grüner Veltliner green apple, citrus
Marsanne almond, honeysuckle, marzipan
Melon de Bourgogne (Muscadet) lime, salt, green apple
Pinot gris (Pinot grigio) white peach, pear, apricot
Riesling citrus fruits, peach, honey, petrol
Sauvignon blanc gooseberry, lime, asparagus, cut grass, bell pepper (capsicum), grapefruit, passionfruit
Sémillon honey, orange, lime
Viognier peach, pear, nutmeg, apricot

Read those descriptors against the dominant flavor of the dish rather than against the fish itself, since the sauce is usually what sets it.

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Reference cheat sheets

Reference Cheat Sheets

1855, Premier vs Grand Cru, Cru Bourgeois, and the château map, on two pages.