Old Wine Bottles: Why Empties Sell
Updated
Old wine bottles, even when empty, hold value in the fine wine market. Their condition provides crucial insights into the provenance and potential quality of the wine they once contained. For collectors and auction buyers, details like the ullage level, label integrity, and capsule condition serve as vital indicators of how a wine has been stored and aged. Ullage, the headspace between the wine and the cork, is a key marker. A lower fill level can indicate increased exposure to oxidation, which affects a wine's value considerably, according to WineBid. A bottle with excellent fill suggests optimal storage, which can significantly influence a wine's resale value. Beyond their historical significance, empty fine wine bottles also contribute to the complex ecosystem of the wine market. They sometimes serve as components in the supply chain for counterfeit operations. Understanding these factors helps you assess the true worth of your collection.
What is ullage and why does it matter for old wine bottles?
Ullage, also known as the fill level or headspace, is the space at the top of a wine bottle not occupied by wine, as defined by WineBid. This gap between the wine and the bottom of the cork is a critical indicator of a wine's condition, especially for mature vintages, according to Decanter. Producers typically aim for initial fill levels of 3-10mm at bottling, as stated by Dirceu Vianna Junior MW in Decanter. Over time, wine is lost through cork absorption and evaporation, a natural process sometimes referred to as the "angel's share" in barrels.
A lower ullage level generally signals that the wine has been exposed to potentially harmful levels of oxidation. Matt Walls, DWWA regional chair for Rhône, told Decanter that ullage is "the best guide you have to the condition of a bottle of wine, especially if you don't know for certain how it's been stored." The ullage level can also offer clues about the storage conditions a wine experienced. Abnormally low fill levels point to poor storage conditions like high temperature or low humidity, according to Dirceu Vianna Junior MW in Decanter.
Auction houses and retailers of mature wines pay close attention to ullage levels when determining a wine's resale value. The descriptions for fill levels vary between Bordeaux and Burgundy wines due to their different bottle shapes, according to WineBid.
Here are common ullage terms for Bordeaux bottles, based on Michael Broadbent's guide:
| Ullage Level (in/cm) | Appearance | Assessment |
|---|---|---|
| 0.12 in (0.3 cm) | High up to the cork | Normal level for young wines |
| 0.2 in (0.5 cm) | High in neck | Good condition for any age |
| 0.6 in (1.5 cm) | Top of the shoulders | Normal for older wines. Good condition for wines over 15 years |
| 1 in (2.5 cm) | Upper part of shoulders | Generally okay in older wines, especially those over 20 years |
| 1.18-1.38 in (3-3.5 cm) | Mid to mid-low shoulders | Possible oxidation. Price should reflect the risk. |
| 2.36-2.75 in (6-7 cm) | Low shoulders to below shoulders | Extremely risky. Possibly undrinkable |
For Burgundy, Pinot Noir, and wines in similar bottles, WineBid measures ullage in centimeters from the cork to the wine. Two centimeters or less is considered an excellent fill for any age. Three centimeters is normal for wines 12 years and older, and excellent for wines 25 years or older, according to WineBid. Four centimeters is normal for wines over 20 years old and excellent for those over 35 years old. Five centimeters is not uncommon in wines 30 years old or older, WineBid states. Christie's, as cited by Decanter, notes that ullage of up to 7cm is relatively normal in 30-year-old Burgundy.
To learn more about how fill levels impact your wine, explore our guide on wine ullage levels explained.
How do auction houses assess the condition of old wine bottles?
Auction houses employ trained inspectors who document every possible bottle detail, according to WineBid. Beyond ullage, they scrutinize labels, capsules, and corks for any condition issues. Labels may be noted for being bubbled, faded, folded, loose, nicked, scuffed, soiled, stained, tissue stained, torn, worn, wrinkled, or having unauthorized writing, WineBid states. Capsules can show issues such as being chipped, corroded, cracked, missing, nicked, oxidized, scuffed, soiled, stained, torn, worn, or wrinkled, according to WineBid. Corks are inspected for being depressed or elevated, WineBid adds.
Provenance, the ownership history of a wine, is particularly important for establishing the estimated value of very old, rare, or valuable wines, WineBid explains. If provenance is unknown, WineBid states it will either reject the wines or clearly note this on the lot description. Professional storage facilities, passive cellars, and direct shipment from the winery are terms WineBid uses to describe how wines were stored.
Matt Walls told Decanter that he always checks the fill level, seepage, color, and signs of fraud when buying older bottles. Christie's guidance, published in 2013 and cited by Decanter, considers "low shoulder" ullage in a Bordeaux bottle "and usually only accepted for sale if wine or label exceptionally rare or interesting'." "Top shoulder" is normal for any claret 15 years or older. "mid-shoulder" is not abnormal for a 30 to 40-year-old wine, according to Christie's guidance in Decanter.
When considering a purchase, you can shine a strong light at the punt to check for sediment and abnormal color loss. You can also cut the capsule to inspect the cork and look for seepage, or gently touch the cork to ensure it does not move, advises David Dudley-Jones of Dudley Jones Fine Wines in Decanter.
For deeper insights into the auction process, refer to our guide on how to buy wine at auction.
What are the risks associated with low ullage in old wine bottles?
Low ullage in old wine bottles suggests increased exposure to oxygen, which can lead to various wine faults and spoilage. The greater the amount of ullage, the more potential the wine has been exposed to harmful levels of oxidation. This can cause the wine to oxidize, as Matt Walls explained to Decanter.
Oxidation-type faults can manifest in several ways. The Australian Wine Research Institute (AWRI) describes sensory characteristics ranging from a dulling of the aroma to "cardboard," "straw," and "hay-like" aromas, or even "sherry-like" and "madeirised" in extreme cases. Acetaldehyde, a compound associated with oxidation, can impart odours described as "over-ripe bruised apples" or "sherry" and "nut-like" characters at levels above 125 mg/L, according to AWRI. Volatile acidity (VA), often perceived as the odour of vinegar, is another oxidation-related fault. Its reported aroma threshold is as low as 0.1: 0.125 g/L in wine, AWRI states. The legal maximum content of volatile acidity in Australian wines, expressed as acetic acid, is 1.5 g/L, according to AWRI.
Beyond oxidation, poor storage conditions indicated by low ullage can also lead to other issues. Long-term storage requires a temperature of around 13°- 15°C, a humidity level of 70% or so, and an absence of light and vibration, according to Dirceu Vianna Junior MW in Decanter. Wines kept in lesser conditions may experience evaporation and diffusion at a faster rate, resulting in higher ullage levels.
Cork taint, primarily caused by 2,4,6-trichloroanisole (TCA), is another significant fault. TCA has a distinct musty, mouldy aroma, with an aroma threshold in Pinot Noir wine determined as 1.4 ng/L in one study cited by AWRI. The consumer rejection threshold for TCA was 3.1 ng/L, while the consumer detection threshold was 2.1 ng/L, according to Prescott et al. (2005) cited by AWRI. TCA can suppress overall aroma intensity and positive fruit-derived characters, even at concentrations as low as 1 ng/L, AWRI states.
Understanding proper storage is crucial for preserving your wine's condition. Explore our guide on how to store wine for best practices.
Does bottle storage position or temperature affect ullage and wine condition?
The storage conditions of wine bottles, including position and temperature, significantly influence the wine's aging and the evolution of ullage. A study by Chanut et al. (2023) investigated the oxygen barrier properties of a bottleneck-stopper system using microagglomerated cork stoppers (Diam 5 type) over 24 months.
The study found that the position of the bottle during storage-vertical (cork in contact with vapor) or horizontal (cork in contact with liquid)-did not significantly influence the oxygen transfer through the bottleneck-cork system for microagglomerated corks. It did not affect the intrinsic oxygen diffusion property of the cork stopper alone either, according to Chanut et al. (2023). This observation held for all durations measured from 3 to 24 months at 20°C, Chanut et al. (2023) state.
However, temperature had a strong impact on oxygen transfer. The oxygen barrier properties of the bottleneck-cork system remained unchanged over 24 months at a storage temperature of 20°C. Higher temperatures showed different results, Chanut et al. (2023) report. At 35°C, a temperature "easily reached during bottle shipping" according to Chanut et al. (2023), total oxygen transfer did not increase significantly for up to 9 months. Beyond this duration, a significant transfer at the glass-cork interface began to occur, with the total oxygen diffusion coefficient increasing sharply from 5.2 × 10−11 to 3.5 × 10−8 m2 s−1 at 12 months. The diffusion coefficient through the stopper alone remained unchanged, Chanut et al. (2023) found.
At an even higher storage temperature of 50°C, this shift in oxygen transfer at the glass-cork interface occurred much earlier, within the first 3 months of storage, according to Chanut et al. (2023). The total diffusion coefficient reached around 1.8 × 10−7 m2 s−1 at 3 months, further accentuating after 6 months to 7.2 × 10−6 m2 s−1, approaching the diffusion coefficient of oxygen in the air (2.0 × 10−5 m2 s−1). That shift indicated leakage at the glass-cork interface, Chanut et al. (2023) explain. This increased transfer at higher temperatures could be due to a partial melting of the surface treatment agent on the cork or a modification of the stopper's mechanical properties, Chanut et al. (2023) suggest. For instance, the liquid:solid ratio of the cork's coating was estimated as 6% at 20°C. It increased to 19% at 35°C and 41% at 50°C, according to Chanut et al. (2023).
Empirically, wines are considered to be best stored at temperatures around 12-16°C, according to Chanut et al. (2023). Relative humidity above 50% is required for good elasticity of cork-based closures. Humidity above 80% can increase the risk of mildew formation on the outer surface of the cork, Chanut et al. (2023) add.
For more on protecting your fine wine assets, see our guide on fine wine investment.
Why do empty old wine bottles have value?
Empty old wine bottles, particularly those from prestigious producers or rare vintages, command value in the market due to their role in the broader wine ecosystem. While their primary purpose is to hold and age wine, the physical characteristics of these bottles-including their unique shapes, labels, and closures-can be desirable for various reasons.
One significant factor contributing to their market value is their potential use in illicit activities. The empties market can serve as a component in the empties market as a counterfeit supply chain. There, genuine bottles are refilled with lesser wines and then resealed to be sold as authentic. This practice highlights why buyers for auction houses, as Matt Walls noted in Decanter, always check for "signs of fraud" when assessing older bottles. The authenticity of the bottle itself, even when empty, can thus be a critical element in the battle against wine counterfeiting.
Understanding the market dynamics for both full and empty bottles helps you make informed decisions about your collection. You can track market trends with our live fine wine market index.
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