Buying 1980s Bordeaux: Ullage, Storage and Faults

When considering buying 1980s Bordeaux, the condition of the bottle offers the most immediate insight into its past care and potential quality. Ullage, or the fill level, is a primary indicator. A lower ullage can suggest seepage and oxidation of the wine, significantly affecting its value, according to WineBid. WineBid considers a "very top shoulder" fill level excellent for wines more than 20 years old. A "mid shoulder" fill may be normal for a wine 40 years old or older. However, Decanter states that ullage lower than mid-shoulder level poses a much higher risk of spoilage. Matt Walls is DWWA regional chair for Rhône. Speaking to Decanter.com in 2018, he said ullage is "the best guide you have to the condition of a bottle of wine, especially if you don't know for certain how it's been stored." Understanding these indicators, alongside provenance and other visual cues, helps you make informed decisions about your next acquisition of 1980s Bordeaux.

What does ullage tell you about 1980s Bordeaux?

Ullage, also known as the fill level or headspace, describes the space between the wine and the top of the container. This space is a mixture mostly of alcohol and water vapors with carbon dioxide. In non-air-tight containers like cork-stoppered bottles, oxygen can also seep in. While some oxygen benefits wine aging, excessive amounts can lead to oxidation and other faults. For Bordeaux, specific ullage terms are used to assess condition and value.

WineBid considers anything in the neck of the bottle to be a perfect fill level for any age. For wines more than 20 years old, a "very top shoulder" fill is an excellent level, according to WineBid. A "top shoulder" fill is acceptable and normal for wines 15 years of age and older. It is a very good fill level for wines 35 years of age and older, WineBid states. A "mid shoulder" fill suggests that ullage has dropped during the life of the wine due to cork easing or inconsistent storage conditions. It may still be normal for a wine 40 years old or older, according to WineBid. However, Decanter warns that ullage lower than mid-shoulder level poses a much higher risk of spoilage. A "low shoulder" fill occurs in older wines, WineBid notes. Christie's, in guidance published in 2013, says a bottle of Bordeaux with ullage down at the "low shoulder" is considered "and usually only accepted for sale if wine or label exceptionally rare or interesting'," as reported by Decanter. Matt Walls, speaking to Decanter.com in 2018, advises thinking twice before buying if the fill level is "much below the bottom of the neck of a Bordeaux bottle."

Michael Broadbent is a Master of Wine and senior consultant of Christie's auction. He developed a guide for evaluating ullage levels of matured wines in the late 1980s. It is "generally accepted and widely used in the wine market" as an evaluation tool for all sorts of wine.

Ullage Level (in/cm)	Appearance	Assessment
0.12 in (0.3 cm)	High up to the cork	Normal level for young wines
0.2 in (0.5 cm)	High in neck	Good condition for any age
0.6 in (1.5 cm)	Top of the shoulders	Normal for older wines. Good condition for wines over 15 years
1 in (2.5 cm)	Upper part of shoulders	Generally okay in older wines, especially those over 20 years
1.18-1.38 in (3-3.5 cm)	Mid to mid-low shoulders	Possible oxidation. Price should reflect the risk.
2.36-2.75 in (6-7 cm)	Low shoulders to below shoulders	Extremely risky. Possibly undrinkable

You can learn more about fill levels and their implications in our guide to wine ullage levels explained.

How does storage temperature affect wine condition?

Storage temperature significantly impacts the long-term condition of your 1980s Bordeaux, particularly influencing oxygen transfer through the bottleneck-cork system. Decanter states that long-term storage requires a temperature of around 13-15°C. A study by Chanut et al. (2023) on microagglomerated cork-based stoppers found that at a storage temperature of 20°C, the oxygen barrier properties remained unchanged over 24 months of aging. However, at 35°C, a temperature "easily reached during bottle shipping," total oxygen transfer did not increase significantly for up to 9 months. Beyond this duration of storage, a significant transfer at the glass-cork interface started to occur, according to Chanut et al. The study observed a "tremendous oxygen transfer" at the glass-cork interface from 3 months at 50°C, further accentuated at 6 months. It reached a value approaching the diffusion coefficient of oxygen in the air. That indicated the presence of leakage at the glass-cork interface, Chanut et al. reported.

This increased oxygen transfer at higher temperatures could be due to a partial melting of the paraffin and silicone coating on the cork stopper's surface. A modification of the stopper's mechanical properties is another possibility, Chanut et al. suggest. The study also found that the presence of model wine favored the oxygen transfer at the glass-cork interface. That accounted for nearly 70% of the total oxygen transfer after the initial three months of storage at 20°C. However, the storage position (vertical or horizontal) did not significantly influence oxygen transfer, Chanut et al. reported. This means storing bottles horizontally to keep the cork moist, while a common practice, may not be as critical for oxygen ingress as temperature.

For more on optimal conditions, consult our guide on how to store wine.

What other bottle condition signs should you check?

Beyond ullage, a thorough inspection of your 1980s Bordeaux involves checking several other bottle characteristics, including provenance, labels, capsules, and corks. Provenance, the ownership history of a particular wine, is "particularly important for establishing the estimated value of very old, rare or valuable wines," according to WineBid. David Dudley-Jones of Dudley Jones Fine Wines stated in Decanter magazine 2016 that "best advice for buyers is always to try to establish the provenance of the bottle, in order to minimise risks." Auction houses may reject wines with unknown provenance, or mark them clearly as such in lot descriptions, WineBid notes. This is a key aspect of how to buy wine at auction and a consideration for fine wine investment.

WineBid inspectors are trained to document every possible bottle detail. They may note light or heavy label condition issues, WineBid states. Those include labels that are bubbled, faded, folded, loose, nicked, scuffed, soiled, stained, tissue stained, torn, worn, wrinkled, and labels carrying writing that the producer did not originally place there. Similarly, capsule condition issues, light or heavy, may refer to capsules that are chipped, corroded, cracked, missing, nicked, oxidized, scuffed, soiled, stained, torn, worn, and wrinkled, according to WineBid. Inspectors may also note cork condition issues, such as depressed or elevated corks, WineBid reports.

Seepage, the slow escape of wine due to natural cork lifecycle or storage conditions, is another critical sign, according to WineBid. A low ullage can indicate seepage and oxidation, WineBid states. Decanter also notes that lower fill levels and resultant seepage "usually point to heat exposure and poor storage." To get an indication of a wine's condition without pulling the cork, Decanter suggests shining a strong light at the punt. That gives clues about the level of sediment and abnormal loss of color. Decanter also suggests cutting the capsule to inspect the condition of the cork and check for signs of seepage, or gently touching the cork to ensure it does not move.

This is especially important for highly sought-after and often counterfeited vintages, such as the 1982 Mouton Rothschild and Lafite, the most counterfeited vintage of the Kurniawan era.

What are common faults in older wines?

Older wines, including 1980s Bordeaux, can exhibit various faults that impact their drinkability and value, often stemming from storage conditions or the wine's natural aging process. Oxidation is a common fault, particularly of white wines. Red wines, though, "can withstand significant oxidation during handling due to the higher content of phenolic compounds, which are natural antioxidants," according to The Australian Wine Research Institute (AWRI). The sensory characteristics of oxidation range from a dulling of the aroma, to "cardboard," "straw," and "hay-like" aromas, to "sherry-like" and "madeirised," AWRI states. In extreme cases, "wet wool," "wet dog," or "varnish-like" aromas can be evident, AWRI reports.

Volatile acidity (VA) is another fault, generally perceived as the "odour of vinegar," with a reported aroma threshold in wine as low as 0.1-0.125 g/L. The concentration at which it is regarded as detrimental is "usually greater than 0.7 g/L," according to AWRI. Increased levels of acetic acid in stored wines are typically due to the growth of acetic acid bacteria, which convert alcohol to acetic acid in the presence of oxygen, AWRI notes. Ethyl acetate, perceived as the "odour of nail polish remover," can also contribute to the sensory perception of volatile acidity. Concentrations range from about 30-60 mg/L in "normal" wines to about 150-200 mg/L in defective wines, AWRI reports.

Cork taint, primarily caused by 2,4,6-trichloroanisole (TCA), is "one of the most odour intense compounds known and has a distinct musty, mouldy aroma," according to AWRI. Another compound, 2,4,6-tribromoanisole (TBA), also causes cork taint with a similar "distinct musty, mouldy aroma," AWRI states. The AWRI found that TCA can be formed in oak, meaning wines can have TCA taint without any contact with cork. Mousiness, an off-flavor reminiscent of "caged mice" or "cracker biscuit," is generally perceived late on the palate and is "usually of microbial origin," AWRI reports. Most strains of lactic acid bacteria are capable of producing the taint. These faults can significantly impact the value of a wine, influencing its position on the live fine wine market index.

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